Flsun T1 Pro Delta 3D Printer - High Speed FDM 3D Printer with 1000mm/s Printing, Dual-Gear Extruder, Auto Leveling & 300°C Nozzle | Perfect for Rapid Prototyping, DIY Projects & Professional 3D Printing

First week review 4/13/2020, will update over time:Assembly was a breeze out of the box.Albeit, my extruder stepper motor was not factory installed which the manual does not talk about installation. In the bag of screws (not the bag of extras), take two of the tiny screws out and use those to mount the assembled titan-clone bowden extruderI made sure to inspect all of the screws that were installed by the factory. I checked the z-stops at the top of the printer and needed to tighten the screws. I made sure to tighten the screws holding the 3 sides of rods for the top and bottom. I also checked the screws holding the arms to the platform. The stepper motors holders in the bottom case also were checked. If not tight, these holders might warp over time. So it's definitely a good idea to check everything yourself that was factory assembled, to avoid potential problems over time.Turned on the printer, plugged the included usb cable into my printer with stock out of the box firmware and my raspberry pi 3 model b loaded with OctoPrint, it connected immediately no problem (YMMV, power off on again if not connecting, maybe reflash the firmware). I left the connection settings to AUTO. For reference, the serial port I see connected is /dev/ttyUSB0 with baudrate at 115200 and printer profile default.I autoleveled the bed using the included autolevel switch that is held to the hotend platform by a magnet, with all heaters turned off. Then I pressed the adjust Z=0 height button on screen and the platform lowered to the autolevel z_0 point. I got a plain piece of printer paper and slid it under the nozzle on the bed and adjusted the platform down until there was slight resistance sliding the paper back and forth. That's a good z=0 height, so I pressed save and the platform homed back to the top position.Within minutes I was printing my first benchy with the included 200g of (190c hotend, 60c bed) white filament.Note: Its fans are quietThe Flsun qq-s pro (this model, with the highly accurate autolevel *switch*) is by comparison is equivalent to my gaming pc fans running in quiet mode.Out of the box printer calibration is accurate to a few mm off, make sure the arms bearings are screwed tight, print a calibration cube to confirm for yours. Mine was 2mm off out of the box.There is a very active fb owners group with new firmware and an unofficial Marlin firmware and many models and useful knowledge faq guide in the files section. I did not need to flash any firmware, only needed firmware that was factory installed stock.There are many models for this printer on thingiverse (flsun qq, flsun qq-s, pro) and I printed some of them to improve the aesthetic of the printer design. Included are pictures of the outcome.I installed 8-diodes TL-smoothers and they improved my prints, no more salmon skin effect caused by the stepper motors drivers providing not smooth power to the stepper motors. This printer uses a4988 stepper motor drivers which are affected by this easily mitigated issue with 8-diodes TL-smoothers. These diodes prevent power going back to the drivers from the motor and redirects it back to the motor. Included are pictures of the TL-smoothers in place with the controller board. This panel was accessed on the bottom of the printer.You will also find the power supply input voltage switch in here (115V or 220V). For US switch to 115V before turning on the printer.So far this is a fantastic addition to my collection of delta 3D printers.---Update 4/24/2020 (week 2)The printer is still making fantastic prints. I cleaned the bed with isopropyl alcohol to clean off any fingerprints and debris that led to poor filament adhesion after a week of use. This restored great adhesion to the bed like new again.I am using Cura 4.5.0 with the OctoPrint plugin to generate gcode procedures from models and send the job to OctoPrint.I calibrated my extruder's e-steps per mm. The initial factory stock value for my extruder steps per mm was 367 according to M205 output. I marked the position of the filament 50mm from the stepper motor top and compared after it was done. For me, I overridden the value to the standard 415 steps per mm because when I told the printer to extrude 50mm it only extruded 45mm and the calculation from the faq guide adapted to my numbers was 367*50/44=417, this could be different for your printer.As for Cura 4.5.0 settings that worked best for my printer 0.4 nozzle with amazonbasics pla 1.75mm filament:initial layer height: 0.3outer before inner walls: yescompensate wall overlaps: yesz seam alignment: sharpest cornerseam corner preference: hide seam or smart hidinginfill before walls: yesprinting temperature (hotend): 225 ; hot for pla, yet amazonbasics pla is stubborn to melt in my environment; 230 for petg ; ymmvbuild plate temperature (bed): 70 ; hot for pla, yet this pla would not stick at 60 and somewhat stick at 65; 90 for petg ; ymmvflow: 100 ; this is after I calibrated my e-stops steps per mminitial layer flow: 100 ; this is after I calibrated my e-stops steps per mmprint speed: 250 ; this is the max I use for ok draft quality, I make it go slower if I want more quality, ymmv, I keep it at 150 for good draft quality and less than 100 for even better quality with pla, make this slow for petgwall speed: auto calculated ; sometimes I set it slower if I want more qualityinitial layer speed 50 ; I slow this down if I see bad bed adhesion, or I stop the job and clean the bed thoroughlyequalize filament flow: yesenable acceleration control: yes (update: on Marlin I disabled this)print acceleration: 3000enable jerk control: yes (update: on Marlin I disabled this)print jerk: 40enable retraction: yes ; ymmv, could be less stringing in printsretraction distance: 7.5 ; ymmv (update: worked for my pla)retraction speed: 70 ; ymmv (update: worked for my pla, for petg definitely slow this down to around 25)combing mode: not in skinretract before outer wall: yesavoid printed parts when traveling: yesavoid supports when traveling: yesz-hop when retracted: yes ; ymmv (update: may cause bumps on print, then set no)fan speed: 100% (I printed better air baffles and now I use 30% for pla and off for petg)minimum layer time: 2lift head: yesbuild plate adhesion type: none ; (sometimes I use skirt or brim, I look at model height, definitely brim for petg)As for the start gcode, I used a post on the fb group that makes the platform go to the bed edge of the logo, extrude 30mm to clear the extruder making a mound, hop up, move to the left, and tap the plate to cut off the string. Then it continues with the rest of the job. It's pretty cool start gcode to watch in person.Experimental settings ymmv:infill travel optimization: yesenable coasting: yes ; ymmv (update: I set this to no for better quality)enable bridge settings: yesuse adaptive layers: yes ; I set no when I want a faster print and quality does not matter, it has made beautiful prints for me when there are curves over z-height in a model (update: I don't use this with Marlin)So far, printing with this 3D printer is still a joy and I'm happy there were no problems after two weeks of heavy use.---Update 7/21/2020 (month 3)Flashed open source Marlin firmware over the stock firmware on the board to gain linear advance pressure control, much improved advanced unified bed leveling for much better bed adhesion, and bed correction via the fade height feature.I also noticed several prints had wavy outer walls due to the infill pattern showing through the walls. I increased the wall thickness to have smooth walls on prints.I re-lubed the smooth rods the pulleys assemblies slide up / down through with dry lube PTFE spray and that stopped the noise from the rodsI added a Wyze camera (flashed wifi disabled usb-a only firmware) rotated 90 degrees to view the whole print area of the machine and created a design mount to print that's published on Thingiverse.Wear: Hundreds of prints later, the nozzle has degraded in print quality due to wear and soon I will replace it with the spare whole hot-end assembly that came in the box with the printer. When the spare wears out I will upgrade to a full E3D V6 hot-end assembly.I am going to upgrade the bowden PTFE tube to a creality capricorn tube for its heat resistance at higher extruder temperatures to prevent PTFE carbonization/fumes exposure.So far, this is still a great printer and it is aging with normal wear from so much use.