****** - Verified Buyer
4.5
Fantastic, transparent resins are the best for printing reliably, hes primed but the lex luthor in the pic was made with this resin, the ONLY drawback to transparent resins is its hard to see details until you primeGreat resin, low odor, BUT not as transparent/clear as I had hoped.Clear Blue becomes frosted after cleaning before curing.I bought the Clear Green as well. Will make and review.Perfect with Elegoo Mars 2 Pro with factory settings. Couldn’t get AnyCubic black to work no matter what I did.I am new to the 3D printing. I have been doing this for about 6 months. I have tried a variety of different resins (I would say about 6 different manufacture of clear red). I found that the best resin for color and easy of use is Elegoo Clear Red is the best. I have the Anycubic Photon Mono, Anycubic Photon, Creality LD-002R, Prozen Sonic Mini, Qidi Shadow 5.5s, Qidi Shadow 6.0 Pro and have been able to use the same settings on all of the machines that is not a mono printer. The mono settings are the same for the two machines. I use Lychee Slicer, which helps me keep track of my settings. As you can see in the pictures the red is deep and vibrant. Here are the setting I use:For all of the machines except the monosBurn In LayersNumber of layers: 8Cure Time : 45sLight Off Delay: 6.5sLift After Print: 6.0 mmLift Speed: 65 mm/mNormal LayersLayer Thickness: .05 mmLight Off Delay: 6.5sCure Time: 12sLift After Print: 6 mmSpeedLifting Speed 65 mm/mLowering Speed: 150 mm/mMono machines (Phrozen Mini and Anycubic Mono)Burn In LayersNumber of layers: 6 to 8Cure Time : 14sLight Off Delay: 6.5sLift After Print: 6.0 mmLift Speed: 65 mm/mNormal LayersLayer Thickness: .05 mm to .025 mm depending on the detail of the build.Light Off Delay: 6.5sCure Time: 2.8Lift After Print: 6 mmSpeedLifting Speed 65 mm/mLowering Speed: 200 mm/mGood Product , easy exchange, used on 3D printerIt printed the test Rook piece so well that the surface was shiny. As my first experience with resin printing, I couldn't have imagined a result this good. Later down the road I was having trouble with other resins, and I think it was my exposure time to blame for it. I checked the suggested times for this resin, as I was using 2.5, and it suggested 5-10. No idea how my prints have been turning out at all. They should have all been mush. That's why I say this resin is almost idiot-proof. I was using half the minimal settings, and my prints were still working somehow.I just wish they would come out with an atomic purple color.After printing two bottles of this stuff, I would highly recommend this resin simply for it's ease of use.The temperature range this resin prints in is insane. If you have your printer in your garage, or you keep your house in the high 60s, you probably won't have problems printing. The only time a print failed on me was when the temp outside dropped to 20f and my garage got really cold. Failure happened late in the print when temps probably dropped into the low 40s, totally outside of the recommended range. Some resin requires 80f+ to print well, and wouldn't work for my setup.It's fast printing, dyes well, and low odor (most of the smell is the dye, believe it or not)Not the hardest curing resin, with some pressure you can scratch with your nail, even after cure; but, it's totally usable for light use every day items like a light switch or button, especially if you use a clear coat.A caveat: I have an engineering background, but I am new to 3D printing. This review is for the standard translucent resin (I know that Amazon sometimes combines reviews for different options).A note about my application: I'm trying to make small parts for attaching electrical connectors to the wall of a project box. Of course my priorities will be different than for making fantasy figures or other different uses.This resin was the first one I tried. There are some surface blemishes, but probably because I didn't wash this first batch of parts very well. Below the surface the material is quite transparent.The dimensions seem very true to my CAD model, which is important since these parts must fit with off-the-shelf metal parts.
